War in mountaineering for the summit of Manaslu



Is not the Manaslu the highest mountain in the world nor was it the most popular. At least not until a few days ago, when the images from the different expeditions that were preparing to reach the summit unleashed a controversy that keeps the world mountaineering.

It all started when all those commercial expeditions that each year cram more Manaslu base camp (8,163 meters) They started sending photos of their clients’ supposed success. Images, most of them, with an excessive zoom in which it was impossible to see if they were really on the top of the mountain.

That fueled suspicions, which grew with the data of some GPS carried by the mountaineers, far from the position that marks the top. According to some videos revealed, it was clear that they had stayed a few meters from the summit, a place with difficult access to which the Sherpas had not reached with their fixed ropes.

From there, the controversy. Those who claimed to have touched the highest part of the mountain and those who believed that this could not be considered as a top. A debate that forced us to look back, looking at the data recorded in ‘The Himalayan Database’, where already in 2016 there was talk of an antecima. Also on the specialized website ‘8000ers.com’ it was explained in 2019 that many of these peaks were not the real one, located 20 meters higher.

To end the debate, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, known in the mountaineering world as Mingma G, decided this year to explore a new route to attack the summit and reach the true summit of Manaslu, closing years of dispute around this mountain. In his tests, published a few days ago, it can be seen how he and his companions do reach the summit (the only true one), opening a gap of years in which no one would have touched that highest point.

«The authentic summit of Manaslu is achieved. This should be the first peak in the fall season. I am grateful to my ‘Imagine Nepal’ team and the NNMGA guides. I hope there are no more antecedents in the future. The top is always the top, let there be nothing above you»He explains in a post on Instagram.

It really is not entirely true, because according to the records, some climbers would have reached the summit in autumn, although not many. The last one would have been Guy Cotter, in 2012.

In fact, up to 25 people who would have supposedly crowned the fourteen eight thousand would now have that record under suspicion. Others point out that you have to have a certain level of tolerance when talking about the top of a mountain, trying to give as good a landmark that is not. That it has merit to exceed eight thousand meters, but that does not imply having crowned a mountain.

Although ‘
The Himalayan Database
‘- the mountaineering encyclopedia – has said that it will review some of those peaks, the debate will continue. An open wound in the mountain world.

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